Going Coastal at Central Konkan

There was grilled pomfret in front of me and from the sounds of cats around, I clearly wasn’t the only one with a watering mouth. I was in the village of Harihareshwar, having lunch in a modest home that doubled up as an eatery. The roof was all terracotta brick, the floor a layer of smooth dried dung. This is typical of the central Konkan, many homes serve as eateries called gharguthis or khanavals and you place your order well in advance to be assured that the morning catch will be cooked from scratch in the kitchen. And be prepared to share with cats. The owners of Vishranti had to chase them so I could eat in peace.